If you do any kind of roped up climbing, you spend a lot of time standing, sitting, hanging and falling in your harness. Finding the best climbing harness you can get is essential for safety, comfort and performance.
Think about the kind of climbing you love – Gym climbing? Sport climbing? Trad climbing? Ice climbing?
For just a waistband and some leg loops, there is a huge amount of variation in climbing harnesses on the market. Gear producers have innovated modern harnesses to be light, comfortable, efficient, and safe. We are here to break down the differences between some of this year’s top all-arounders and help you to pick the best climbing harness to meets your needs.
For more of our top climbing gear recommendations, check out these popular articles:
Ropes | Harnesses | Helmets | Backpacks
Climbing Shoes | Approach Shoes | Pants | Shorts | Shirts
Carabiners | Cams | Nuts | Quickdraws | Pulleys | Belay Devices
Bouldering Shoes | Bouldering Pants | Crash Pads
QUICK ANSWER – THE BEST CLIMBING HARNESSES
1. ARC’TERYX AR 395A
2. MAMMUT REALIZATION SHORT
3. BLACK DIAMOND CHAOS
4. BLACK DIAMOND ASPECT
5. PETZL CORAX
6. EDELRID ORION
7. BLACK DIAMOND SOLUTION
8. PETZL AQUILA
9. MAMMUT OPHIR SLIDE
10. BLACK DIAMOND MOMENTUM
COMPARISON TABLE – THE BEST CLIMBING HARNESSES
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CLIMBING HARNESSES REVIEWS
ARC’TERYX AR 395A
Check out the latest price on:Amazon | Backcountry
BEST USE: Sport, trad & ice
WOMEN’S VERSION: Arc’teryx AR 385a
LEG LOOPS: Adjustable. Fixed equivalent: Arc’teryx FL 365
WEIGHT: 13.9 oz
GEAR LOOPS: 4 gear loops + 4 ice clipper slots + rear haul loop
PROS: Lightweight, compact, versatile, very mobile, low profile with widely distributed load
CONS: Expensive, not as comfortable as super padded harnesses, not ideal for extended hanging
MAMMUT REALIZATION SHORTS
Check out the latest price on:Amazon | Backcountry
BEST USE: Sport
WOMEN’S VERSION: N/A
LEG LOOPS: Adjustable
WEIGHT: 19 oz
GEAR LOOPS: 2 gear loops
PROS: Chalk bag clip, fully adjustable, comfortable, unique design, machine washable
CONS: Expensive, only practical for sport climbing, no option of what to wear
BLACK DIAMOND CHAOS
BEST USE: Trad climbing, also good for sport
WOMEN’S VERSION: N/A
LEG LOOPS: Fixed
WEIGHT: 12.6 oz
GEAR LOOPS: 4 gear loops + rear haul loop
PROS: Comfortable, light, breathable, and abrasion resistant, Tommy Caldwell’s chosen harness for the Dawn Wall
CONS: Expensive, not as adjustable as other harnesses, no ice clipper slots
BLACK DIAMOND ASPECT
Check out the latest price on:Amazon | Backcountry
BEST USE: Ice climbing, also good for sport and trad
WOMEN’S VERSION: Black Diamond Lotus
LEG LOOPS: Adjustable
WEIGHT: 14.5 oz
GEAR LOOPS: 4 gear loops + 4 ice clipper slots + rear haul loop
PROS: Extremely durable, breathable, comfortable with good pressure distribution
CONS: Bulky, somewhat hard to reach back gear loops
PETZL CORAX
BEST USE: Sport, trad & ice
WOMEN’S VERSION: N/A
LEG LOOPS: Adjustable
WEIGHT: 17.3 oz
GEAR LOOPS: 4 gear loops + 2 ice clipper slots + rear haul loop
PROS: Comfortable, versatile, and fairly breathable, inexpensive
CONS: Heavy, lots of buckles, reduced mobility
EDELRID ORION
BEST USE: Sport, trad & ice
WOMEN’S VERSION: Edelrid Solaris
LEG LOOPS: Adjustable
WEIGHT: 14.6 oz
GEAR LOOPS: 4 gear loops + 2 ice clipper slots + rear haul loop
PROS: Very comfortable, especially when hanging, easy adjust buckles, lightweight and durable, waist belt on women’s version can taper to female body
CONS: Expensive, haul loop difficult to use
BLACK DIAMOND SOLUTION
BEST USE: Sport & trad
WOMEN’S VERSION: Black Diamond Solution
LEG LOOPS: Fixed
WEIGHT: 11 oz
GEAR LOOPS: 4 gear loops + rear haul loop
PROS: Exceptionally comfortable, doesn’t twist when catching falls, low profile with widely distributed load
CONS: No adjustable leg loop equivalent
PETZL AQUILA
Check out the latest price on:Amazon | Backcountry
BEST USE: Sport, trad & ice
WOMEN’S VERSION: N/A
LEG LOOPS: Adjustable
WEIGHT: 12.1
GEAR LOOPS: 4 gear loops + 2 ice clipper slots + rear haul loop
PROS: Comfortable, lightweight and very durable, easy to use, contoured gear loops
CONS: Expensive, leg loop buckles may slip over time, haul loop hard to use
MAMMUT OPHIR SLIDE
BEST USE: First Harness – sport & trad
WOMEN’S VERSION: Mammut Ophira Slide
LEG LOOPS: Adjustable. Fixed equivalent: Mammut Ophir
WEIGHT: 14.8 oz
GEAR LOOPS: 4 gear loops + rear haul loop
PROS: Offset gear loops for easier fit, breathable, abrasion resistant features
CONS: Not that comfortable, waist buckle placement difficult for right handed folk
BLACK DIAMOND MOMENTUM
BEST USE: First Harness. Sport, Trad
WOMEN’S VERSION: Black Diamond Primrose
LEG LOOPS: Adjustable
WEIGHT: 12 oz
GEAR LOOPS: 4 gear loops + rear haul loop
PROS: Inexpensive, great value, increased padding for greater comfort, easy to clip gear loops
CONS: Gear loops hold less gear, poor breathability
HOW TO CHOOSE THE BEST CLIMBING HARNESSES
PURPOSE
Climbing sub-disciplines can help narrow in on the best climbing harness. Gym climbers can choose whatever is comfortable and convenient. Sport climbers need gear loops for quickdraws and enjoy a lightweight model. Trad climbers benefit from bigger gear loops and a padded, comfy fit. Ice climbers need ice clipper slots and adjustable leg loops.
SIZING AND COMFORT
A well fit harness is critical to ensuring the harness can perform safely. The waist belt is the most important component and should be sized such that it won’t slide over the hips if the climber flips upside down. Beyond safety, a comfortable harness will improve your quality of life immensely when climbing. It’s worth considering the benefits and trade-offs of extra padding and breathability.
LEG LOOPS
It’s important to listen to your body and consider whether you want fixed or adjustable harness leg loops. Many people prefer fixed leg loops as they tend to be less bulky, lighter, and quick to take on and off. The biggest issue with fixed leg loops is that they are not suitable for every body type. If your legs don’t fit comfortably in fixed loops, then adjustable is the way to go! Adjustable loops also enable you to comfortably layer your clothes in a variety of weather conditions.
GEAR LOOPS
Gear loops are present on a harness to make your life more convenient! Having four gear loops is essential when climbing outside to ensure there’s enough real estate to hang lots of equipment. Look for larger and sturdier loops if you know you have more gear.
WEIGHT
Climbers generally want to feel lightweight so the draw of a lighter harness is self-explanatory. Some people swear by light harnesses to help them send their latest project, or when keeping it light and fast on alpine style routes. Others hardly notice a difference, so weight really comes down to personal preference.
MEN’S VS WOMEN’S
There are substantial differences between men’s and women’s harnesses. The distance between the leg loops and the waist belt, known as the rise, is longer on a woman’s harness. This is because women generally have smaller waists and wider hips, and tend to wear their harnesses above their hips. Women have a lower center of gravity and the higher waist belt makes hanging in a harness more comfortable. In the end the difference between men’s and women’s harnesses has to do with body type – try on both to see which one fits your body best.
HARNESS CARE
Your harness is a critical piece of safety equipment. Because you depend on it with no back up, it is imperative that you care for your harness appropriately. Learn the specific care instructions of the model you buy, and follow recommendations for when to replace it. There is no back-up for a failed
The post Best Climbing Harnesses of 2018 appeared first on The Adventure Junkies.
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